Paris, 1930s: A City Split Between Two Queens
The 1930s were one of the most glamorous decades in Parisian fashion — a moment when couture was at its artistic peak and designers were treated like cultural monarchs. But beneath the satin, embroidery and salon lights, Paris was divided.
On one side stood Jeanne Lanvin, the grande dame of refinement. On the other stood Elsa Schiaparelli, the high priestess of surrealism.
They were opposites in every possible way — and that made their rivalry inevitable.
This is the story of how elegance and surrealism collided, shaping one of the most fascinating feuds in fashion history.
1. Jeanne Lanvin: The Architect of Elegance
Lanvin’s world was built on embroidery, femininity, mother‑daughter intimacy, couture craftsmanship, romantic silhouettes and the iconic Lanvin Blue.
Her designs were soft, refined, emotionally intelligent, rooted in tradition and devoted to beauty.
Lanvin believed that fashion should protect, celebrate and elevate women. Her couture was a sanctuary — a place where femininity was honoured, instead of it being challenged.
She represented continuity.
2. Elsa Schiaparelli: The Surrealist Rebel
Schiaparelli’s world was built on shock, wit, surrealism, artistic rebellion, bold colour and un-expected shapes.
Her designs were loud, intellectual, humorous, confrontational and avant‑garde.
She collaborated with:
- Salvador Dalí
- Jean Cocteau
- Man Ray
Her fashion wasn’t about beauty — it was more about ideas.
She represented disruption.
3. Two Women, Two Philosophies
Lanvin and Schiaparelli weren’t just different designers. They had different worldviews. They were night and day.
Lanvin’s Philosophy:
Beauty is devotion. Femininity is emotional. Craft is sacred. Elegance is timeless.
Schiaparelli’s Philosophy:
Beauty is irrelevant. Femininity is a performance. Fashion is art. Shock is power.
Paris adored both — but Paris also loved conflict.
4. The Couture Clash
Their feud wasn’t loud like Chanel vs. Schiaparelli. It wasn’t bitter like YSL vs. Karl. It was quieter — but sharper.
Lanvin saw Schiaparelli as:
- too theatrical
- too modern
- too un-serious
- too gimmicky
Schiaparelli saw Lanvin as:
- too traditional
- too sentimental
- too safe
- too conservative
They competed for:
- the same clients
- the same press
- the same couture spotlight
- the same Parisian social circles
But they offered completely different visions.
5. The Battle of Colour
Lanvin had Lanvin Blue — serene, noble, celestial.
Schiaparelli had Shocking Pink — loud, electric, unapologetic.
These colours became symbols of their rivalry:
- blue = elegance
- pink = rebellion
Parisian women chose sides based on colour alone.
6. The Battle of Silhouette
Lanvin offered robe de style, soft draping, romantic volume and historical references.
Schiaparelli offered sharp tailoring, surrealist motifs, sculptural shapes and un-expected proportions.
Lanvin dressed women like royalty.
Schiaparelli dressed women like art.
7. The Social Divide
Lanvin’s clientele:
- aristocrats
- elite women
- mothers and daughters
- traditional Parisian families
Schiaparelli’s clientele:
- artists
- actresses
- intellectuals
- avant‑garde circles
Parisian salons became battlegrounds of taste.
8. Why This Feud Matters
Because Lanvin vs. Schiaparelli is the purest expression of two competing visions of femininity:
Femininity as elegance vs. Femininity as rebellion
Their feud shaped:
- couture aesthetics
- fashion photography
- museum curation
- modern runway storytelling
- the divide between classic and avant‑garde fashion
Every modern designer echoes one of them:
- Valentino → Lanvin
- Dior → Lanvin
- Iris van Herpen → Schiaparelli
- Viktor & Rolf → Schiaparelli
- Pierpaolo Piccioli → Lanvin
- Daniel Roseberry → Schiaparelli (direct lineage)
Their rivalry still defines Paris.
9. The Legacy
Lanvin’s legacy craftsmanship, elegance, emotional beauty and couture heritage.
Schiaparelli’s legacy surrealism, shock, artistic fashion
- conceptual design
Both women changed fashion.
Both women shaped history.
Both women built worlds that still exist today.
Paris crowned neither — because Paris needed both.
I’m Stacey Hobbs, thanks for reading Face by Stace! Until next time.
do you feel fabulous today?
Face by Stace 